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Published - Monday, September 08, 2008

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Vilified vittles reconsidered


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Maybe you think nutritionists flip flop as often as political candidates seem to do. Eggs are bad, no eggs are OK. Switch to margarine, no go back to butter. Drink eight glasses of water each day, no never mind.

What appears to be conflicting news about nutrition is due to the ever-evolving nature of science, said Linda Van Horn, a professor of preventive medicine and nutrition researcher at Northwestern University.
New discoveries about the composition of foods are often behind these seeming nutrition flip-flops, said Van Horn, who serves as editor of the Journal of the American Dietetic Association and is charged daily with the task of translating emerging science.

Sometimes new research reveals that certain foods fail to live up to their early hype. Yet, often we learn that foods have hidden qualities not previously recognized. Here are five often-vilified foods that deserve a second chance.

1. White bread

Why the bad rap? Viewed as fattening and devoid of nutrients compared with its whole-grain cousins, white bread got kicked to the curb.

Reasons to reconsider: White breads are far from empty calories. They’re actually enriched with several essential nutrients that many of us lack, including folic acid, iron and B-vitamins. Half our grains should be whole, but the other half can be white — primarily so we don’t miss out on these vital nutrients.

Best ways to enjoy: Choose whole-grain bread for your morning toast and sandwiches, but don’t feel bad eating a sourdough roll, crunchy baguette or crispy flatbread at dinner time.

2. Frozen and canned vegetables

Why the bad rap? With the emphasis on locally grown fresh produce, frozen and canned vegetables have gotten a rotten reputation that has been hard to shake.

Reasons to reconsider: Frozen and canned vegetables are picked and processed at their peak of freshness so nutrients are not lost. Studies have shown that the nutrient level is comparable to fresh produce. Plus, it’s hard to beat the convenience of having vegetables stashed in your freezer or pantry.

Best ways to enjoy: Buy the varieties without sauces and give canned veggies a quick rinse to reduce the sodium content.

3. Potatoes

Why the bad rap? Spuds became synonymous with starch and were dismissed for their perceived waist-thickening carbs and high glycemic index.

Reasons to reconsider: An average potato is only 100 calories and packs in several key nutrients, including potassium and vitamin C. Recent studies indicate that potatoes contain resistant starch, a type of dietary fiber that “resists” digestion and may help boost your calorie burn and keep you feeling full.

Best ways to enjoy: Keep whole and out of the deep fryer. Watch out for the high-fat toppings that are more to blame than the potato itself. Serving potatoes cold in salads helps to amp up the resistant starch.

4. Red meat

Why the bad rap? It has become almost fashionable to say you avoid red meat, which has taken a hit due to its saturated fat, especially in well-marbled steaks and juicy hamburgers.

Reasons to reconsider: Beef is an excellent source of protein and vitamin B-12, and is one of the richest suppliers of iron, zinc and selenium — a trio of important minerals. Portion size and cut of beef are what you need to keep in mind. Many lean cuts have less fat than a skinless chicken thigh.

Best ways to enjoy: Choose the leanest cuts with “loin” or “round” in the name, such as tenderloin, sirloin or top round. Rather than a huge slab on your plate, aim for a portion about the size of deck of cards or combine it with vegetables in stir-fries and kebabs.

5. Cheese

Why the bad rap? There is no denying that many cheeses are high in calories and fat, especially saturated fat.

Reasons to reconsider: Cheese is a good source of calcium and protein. Newer studies indicate that cheese contains conjugated linoleic acid or CLA, a “good” fat that may help reduce the risk of cancer, heart disease and diabetes.

Best ways to enjoy: Go for the real stuff. Nonfat cheeses don’t fully cut it. Try strong-flavored cheeses that require only a sliver for satisfaction.
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