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Lifelong Westby dairy farmer sells his herd amid market crisis

From the Tribune special report: La Crosse area farmers struggle amid tough economic times series
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Dairy Crisis

As life-long dairy farmer, Ryan Dunnum of rural Westby says the hardest thing about selling his Holstein herd is figuring out what to do next.

Ryan Dunnum had tears in his eyes as he looked over the empty milking parlor that he built. It hadn’t been used since the end of April, when he decided enough was enough and sold most of his herd.

The weight of dairy market volatility started to feel overwhelming in January, he said, after frigid temperatures caused the parlor pipes to freeze and his herd blew through feed to keep warm and produce milk.

“I always had high optimism,” he said. “It was a drain... we’re here where we’re at now, going ‘Can you do it? Can’t you do it? Do you want to do it?’ then the question comes, ‘What are you going to do?’”

His farm is one of hundreds in Wisconsin that have shuttered this year. The rate of dairy closures has increased from two per day in Wisconsin in 2018 to three per day in 2019 so far. But he hopes to jump back into the business if the market price for milk rises and the cost of feed lowers.

Dunnum, who bought his first cow at age 5 with the money he earned from helping his father harvest tobacco, grew the herd to 105 during the course of 38 years. Both sides of his family farmed for generations but now he thinks he was “the last Dunnum in the world to milk cows.”

Dairy Crisis

14 heifers are all that remain on Ryan Dunnum’s farm in rural Westby. Dunham made the hard decision to sell his 50 head milking heard in April due to the challenging finances he faced from low milk prices.

His 120-acre farm, aptly named Top of the Town, sits on a hill in Westby where he says he can see 4th of July fireworks from surrounding cities on all sides.

Dunnum bought the business from his mother in 2006 after his father passed away. She remembers milking cows by hand before she went to school each morning. In 2015, Dunnum brought his mother up to the new milking parlor to show her how technology changed the industry.

“It wasn’t her style,” he said with a chuckle.

He hoped to pass the family business to one of his six children, two boys and four girls whose ages range from 3 years-old to 18 years-old. He and his wife lost their seventh child at nine days old, to E. coli sepsis in the lungs, in 2012.

Today, Dunnum’s herd is down to 14 after he sold most of his cows to slaughter to pay bills and keep a cash flow going, after he realized it was costing too much to buy feed.

Dairy Crisis

A concrete Holstein cow given to Ryan Dunnum by his wife, Jamie, marks the entrance to their now defunct dairy farm in rural Westby.

With the help of his neighbors and two of his children who stayed home from school, his herd was loaded onto trucks one day and taken to Equity Cooperative in Sparta. The cows that remain on Dunnum’s farm are young stock that he hopes to use to get the business going again, if he decides to try to go back into the dairy industry.

“Right now, I’m just kind of like a displaced farmer,” he said.

Dunnum, who got up every morning for decades to take care of his herd, now finds himself without direction, without that routine. “It’s almost like trying to take a wild animal and caging it,” he said.

Before he quit, he sold his milk to Westby Cooperative Creamery, a 115-year-old organization owned by more than 200 farmers that produces cultured products and cheeses, where he sits as a board member with two years left on his term.

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The board gave him time to rebuild his herd, if that’s the route he takes.

“I told them, ‘the cows gotta go, but I really would like to stay on the board,’ so they said they’d hold my seat until the 31st of July to see if I can get cows back,” Dunnum said.

Dunnum Dairy empty barn

The barn adjacent to Dunnum's milking parlor can hold up to 80 cows, but stands empty after he sold off 90% of his herd at the end of April.

He and his wife considered diversifying their agriculture products to provide a boost to their income amid the crisis and bought an established Christmas tree farm last year as well as an Angus cow for Dunnum’s son before realizing the beef market wasn’t much better than dairy. Top of the Town Farm produces oats, alfalfa and corn across three 40-acre plots.

“Back in the day, most farms were paid for with one crop,” he said.

There were nine dairy producers within a few miles’ radius of Dunnum’s farm before the market downturn. Now he counts two that remain. He knows dairy producers are consolidating and growing larger to survive, but bucks the idea of needing to “get big or get out”.

“You start adding more cows, now you need more help but now you have expensive help, now you need more cows to pay the help but now all of a sudden you need more land, you need bigger equipment, and all of a sudden your margins start shrinking, and you start losing control,” he said. “It isn’t a family farm anymore.”

He built the milking parlor and an adjunct barn for his milking herd that can hold up to 80 cows at one time a few years ago, but the barn never met capacity.

“I never hit that mark because of timing and pricing,” he said.

The stress of the volatile market, 18-hour work days between the tree and dairy farms, and the inability make ends meet took its toll on his family. Communication and trust between Dunnum and his wife broke down when she found out he wasn’t able to pay some of the bills.

“I feel like I let her down,” he said, his voice breaking. “Everything’s imploding and what do you do?”

He said it would take about $25,000 to get his dairy business rolling again, but banks are hesitant to provide a loan with only his equity as collateral, without evidence of a cash flow.

Dunnum has some feed left in his silo that he’s saving to jump start his small herd if the market improves. His pasture is overgrown with the grass his cows used to eat. A self-proclaimed optimist, Dunnum believes there’s something better.

“I talked to my 15-year-old son the night I sold the cows,” he said with a sigh, his voice echoed in the empty milking parlor. “He was upset. ‘I said you know what? Maybe this is the end of the curse.’ Years, generations. The amount of work I put in to this.”

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Data, interactive and video journalist

Elizabeth Beyer is the agriculture, data, interactive, audio and video journalist with the La Crosse Tribune.

(11) comments

Old_Retired_Guy

Hmm, google searches identify him as a registered Republican living with registered Democrats. Seems like he got what he asked for.

k

Oh give me a break!!!

Redwall

Farming is a tough business. Family farms have been hurting for decades and they fall further and further behind. Dairy farmers are receiving less $ for milk now than 20 years ago in real (inflation adjusted) dollars.

After a spike in prices around 2014, milk prices dropped over 30% and have bounced around since then. Various factors including productivity, relative strength of the dollar, and trade policy of other countries (especially the European community) played a big role.

For those crying this is all due to Trump, try educating yourselves. Dairy market trends have been unfavorable for decades, Bush and Obama did nothing but facilitate the demise of farmers in flyover country. Its too early to know if Trump's policies will help, but it can only be better than the slow death farmers have been feeling under prior administrations.

Wisely, the author if this article withheld trying to analyze complicated dairy farming economics writ large and instead focused on the human plight of the farmer.

senior

Farming is a very sad business to be in. You get all you can from the animal, then send to Slaughter. You have to keep things cleaned up and your animals fed a good diet, they have medical bills, maybe non animal farming would be better for you.

Frangel45

This is very sad to read this article. I grew up on a farm and farmed for many years, but the difference was that we had a DIVERSIFIED farms. When milk prices were low my family raised more pigs, chickens, steers and sold crops. Today's farmers focus on one commodity - corn or soybeans, plowing up everything in their path including down to the creek's edge. Or, dairy with enough crops to sustain their herd. This system of of farming will always fail since you have nothing to fall back on when one market suffers. We raised laying hens, meat chickens, geese as well. Why is it that young farmers refuse to adapt? Mono-cropping is the lazy farmers way of doing things - their thinking is that they can plant, pour on chemicals to avoid cultivating and nurturing a crop then vacation all summer, return in fall to harvest and in some cases hire the harvesting done as well. Sure, this isn't the way all farmers do it but many do. When the soybean, corn markets sag they cry "poor me". They aren't real farmers. I know plenty of them and they often get what they deserve. My nephew gets no rest as he is constantly called to milk cows, plant crops, harvest while the family goes to the lake for a month or Mexico. Where did this lazy farming come from? The farms that I observe have lots of things going on - sometimes the hog barns are quiet - when the market is poor but other years they are full. Farms with 1,000's of head of hogs or milk cows are not farms - they are cesspools of filth where they profess to raise healthy pork and produce healthy milk - not really. I would never eat anything produced in these facilities. The same with cows. Most cows these days never set foot on grass. If you tried organic milk, meat, chicken you would notice the difference immediately. Farmers should be rewarded for diversifying their farming operations instead of mono-cropping and only having dairy - they are failures in the making - time to wake up and work with nature and the economy.

GrandpaS

What would you think of editing your comments and then send them off as letter(s) to the editors?

A Veteran

frangel It is easy to see you know nothing about todays farming,you are just another liberal loon running off at the mouth and not a clue of what they are talking about------in other words a FOOL!!!!!!!!!

johnnybragatti

Many of these same farmers commit suicide , mostly in Wisconsin, which is also the very worst for lowballed prices,in the country regarding soybeans. Why??? Trump"s tariffs....no other reason.
Farmers in this state,like residents and rural areas in general, were left "behind" in the April election of 2016. Now it is obvious ....they are getting it from behind, in a big kinda way.

RevBillHoglund

Thanks, Trump. Such a sad state of affairs for the farm family!

Redwall

Thank you for your substantive comment.

JohnnyB now has company in the shallow end of the pool.

GrandpaS

I wish the reporter would have asked Mr. Dunham what he thinks of Trump's tariffs. I would also like to ask, who sets milk prices? Factory farms who produce zillions of gallons? Wouldn't those factory farmers want better prices, too?

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